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Very soon the longest night will again have us in its grip, and, despite
recent positive ruminations on the quiet beauty of Connemara
in winter, it's good to know that daylight will soon re-assert itself.
In the meantime, any opportunity to be transported to where the sun gives
warmth is gratefully accepted.
Galway and The Gambia wouldn't seem to have a lot in common, but they
provide the theme of an exhibition of paintings by Gordon D'Arcy, at Roundstone's
Stable Gallery. The paintings are the fruits of a three-month trip last
winter, from the West of Ireland to the West of Africa.
A large piece of elm proudly displays the amazing beak of the Jabiru –
a knobbly-kneed member of the stork family – while the snow-white wings
of great egrets stand out dramatically against the pink and purple of
a sky seen only in Africa. 'Tubab, Tubab' is the shout favoured by treat-seeking
children running through their village after a passing car, (apparently
it derives from 'Two Bob, Two Bob!', a relic of bygone British days.)
Elsewhere, bats drink from a hidden pool, and majestic fish eagles calmly
survey the river for prey. As the December night pressed in on the gallery,
these exotic images spirited away those present to a place as different
from Connemara as night is from day.
Us humans come a poor second to our winged counterparts when it comes
to travelling unaided over distance, and along the way there were numerous
sightings of birds who spend their time between our temperate climes and
the warmth of Africa. Many sanderlings leave their arctic nests and stop
in Ireland before continuing on to spend the winter between the Equator
and the Tropic of Cancer. And it's not just airborne species that leave
us standing when it comes to long, regular self-propelled journeys, these
Atlantic waters playing host to many cetaceans who also spend time around
Ireland's coastline.
Following the migratory routes of swallows and terns, and occasionally
accompanied by pilot whales and bottlenose dolphins, they made their way
to Senegal, Guinea Bissau, and The Gambia, countries with their own distinct
flavour, seasoned by European influences. The Portuguese, the French,
and the English had their day in one or all of these countries and are
now gone, although many traces of their influence still remain.
Parting company with the open ocean, Gordon and his companions took to
the river that gives The Gambia its name and life. Ospreys, direct from
Scotland and Scandinavia, eyed the adventurers as their boat slowly slipped
upstream, the feathered equivalent of the holidaymaker who has already
spent a week on the beach and who gets immense satisfaction feeling superior
to the new arrivals. No more than a sliver of land on either side of the
river, this marvel of colonial map-making was achieved by a British gunboat
sailing up the river and firing intermittent shots. The shells' landing
place marked out the new border between The Gambia and Senegal.
Many people don't get the chance to see the sun through the winter's 'obstinate
curtain of rain', so it's all the better when someone like Gordon derives
such obvious pleasure from sharing the memories of his fascinating adventure.
(You can combat the effects of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) with
your own vicarious African experience by visiting the exhibition at the
Stable Gallery, Errisbeg
House, Roundstone until 3rd January 1999. For further details contact
Richard de Stacpoole on 095-35834, email marquis@connemara.net).
(16/12)
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