History of Connemara, Galway, Ireland

History of Connemara by Michael Gibbons

Part 3: From Medieval times to the 20th century

John D'Arcy, like many Connemara families was of Norman-French origin. Others include Joyces, Burkes, Morrises, Guys, De Courcey, De Lapp, Barrys, Staunton and Gibbons, all still local names. Though the Normans themselves failed to capture Connemara, one of their frontier castles survives in Joyce Country on Lough Corrib; Hen's Castle. In Mediaeval times Connemara was ruled by the O'Cadhlas who were later pushed out by the 'Ferocious' O'Flahertys, who built a series of castles along the coast, the most famous at Bunowen where Gráinne Uí Mháille (Grainuale) lived for a time when married to Donal ''An Chogaigh'' O'Flaherty. These were sea going clans, with castles on Inishbofin and Clare Island and at Renvyle and Ballyinahinch. In 1588 at least two of the Spanish Armada ships were wrecked off the Connemara coast; the Falcon Blanco and the Conception. Tradition has it that some of the horses escapes from the ships and formed part of the brood stock of the now famous Connemara Pony.

During the Cromwellian and Jacobite wars of the seventeenth century Connemara saw many changes. Inishbofin was taken, and the superb star-shaped fort at the mouth of the harbour was built. The Gaelic lords, defeated and broken, were evicted and replaced by an influx of new landlords who came from the east in Cromwell's policy of 'To Hell or to Connaught'. Most of the native Irish lords fled to France, some though disposessed continued a lucrative smuggling trade of wine, sherry and wool to Nantes and other western French towns.

In the early 1800s Connemara had twelve landlord families. The Martins of Ballyinahinch owned the largest landed estate in Ireland, some 200,000 acres, which encompassed most of Connemara. The most famous of them was Richard better known as Humanity Dick or Trigger Dick, a famous duelist and animal rights campaigner. In 1825, when MP for the area, he succeeded in getting the Martin's Act passed which gave protection to horses and is the basis for all animal rights legislation. Like many of the old landed families, the Martins and the D'Arcys were bankrupted by the great famine and forced to sell up.

The population which had increased steadily in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries was one of the highest population densities in Ireland. Connemara supported huge numbers, largely based on the success of the all important potato crop and the fishing industry. Access to high mountain pastures and the shoreline was also vital for economic survival. When the potato blight destroyed crops it also destroyed a way of life. Amid the horrors of successive famines and some of the worst winters of the nineteenth century the population collapsed in the years 1845-52. A haunting reminder of these times are found in the many deserted farms, villages and graves that are scattered throughout the Clifden area.

In the early part of this century Connemara was at the cutting edge of the world's transport and communication industry. In 1907 Marconi established the first transatlantic telegraph station, just south of Clifden. Little survives of the sprawling industrial complex as it was burnt in 1921. In June 1919 the first successful transatlantic flight landed beside the station, having flown from Newfoundland, and was piloted by two British pilots, Alcock and Brown. Their magnificent achievement won them a £10,000 prize and a knighthood.

Clifden is the heart and soul of Connemara with a vibrant social and cultural base. It is home to the world famous Connemara Pony Show, held in the old Fair Green since 1947 on the third Thursday of August each year. Clifden also hosts the longest running and a nationally important Community Arts Festival (last week in September each year). A haven for writers, artists and film-makers, botanists and archaeologists, an ideal base for animal lovers with abundant sea life and the region's largest seal colony on our doorstep, otters to be seen in every river with whales and dolphin a common sight from our angling and ferry boats.

Clifden is the ideal base for your holidays - for a great day out here are some suggestions: go on an archaeological or mountain walk from the Connemara Walking Centre or visit Dan O Hara's Heritage Farm or Clifden Animal Farm, Kylemore Abbey or the National Park, play a round of golf, do some pony trekking or go shark fishing or island hopping, shop 'til you drop, buying locally- produced tweeds and marble or enjoy our many sandy beaches, enjoy a great day fresh water fishing (permits for Clifden anglers from Stanley's). Whether you are interested in an activity holiday which included everything from sea sports to mountain walking or leisurely cultural activities including poetry reading or painting or simply enjoying the Caint, Ceoil agus Craic in our world famous pubs and restaurants, Clifden is the place for you.

This article copyright © Michael Gibbons 1995

See also

Restoration of St Mary's RC Graveyard

Using St Mary's Church, Clifden's first Roman Catholic Chapel, and the nearby graveyard, as a focal point, Kathleen Villiers-Tuthill traces Clifden's history from 1812 right up to the present day.

The Man from Mullaghgloss - The Life and Times of Johnnie Coyne

written by himself, on Jürgen Kullmann's Irelandman.de site.

History of Clifden Coastguard Station

"...built on land that had been farmed by the Whelan family who were tenants on the D'Arcy estate and resident in the area since before the famine." From coastguard-station.com.